Chapter 1
Paul Marco took the advice of his good friend Mikey Weigand and left Baltimore to start a new beginning. On a cold March day, he headed west on a five- or six-day journey to Las Vegas. There was no rush or schedule to keep. There was no reason not to stop and enjoy everything the country had to offer in terms of scenery and small-town culture. Paul decided from the start to only stop in small towns and avoid big cities. He had enough of big city life, and there was nothing any of them could offer that he had not already experienced. All the big cities were garbage, crime-ridden, and unsympathetic to normal humans trying to scratch out a life for themselves and their families. The so-called blue states run by Democrats were the absolute worst in the bunch. Many of them were also sanctuary states, which made them desirable to illegals and undesirable for working middle-class folks.
The first stop on the map to Vegas was Berkeley Springs, West Virginia. Paul searched the Internet for information on Berkeley Springs State Park and the historic mineral baths. A relaxing spa town known for its warm mineral springs and quaint downtown. Traveling alone and through the mountainous countryside could get boring, so Paul would constantly fiddle with the radio dial in his Jeep to find acceptable music. The Jeep was an older model and did not have many of the newer accessories, but it did still have a working CD player. One thing Paul had in the side compartment of the Jeep was plenty of audio CD’s that would help pass the time.
After driving for four hours or so, Paul stopped to get gas and some snacks. The gas station was rather old and had a two-bay garage attached with lifts to do oil changes, exhaust work, etc. The elderly man that approached Paul as he was exiting the Jeep simply looked at Paul and asked, Fill er’ up?
Paul said, Yes sir and please check the oil while I go inside to get something to snack on.
Paul entered the gas station storefront, which was really an all-purpose general store. They sold fishing tackle, hunting licenses, ammo, and liquor. As Paul looked around, he thought, I hope the ATF arm of the government never finds this place.
The elderly woman behind the counter greeted Paul by saying, Welcome stranger. Can I help you find anything?
Paul said, I am going to grab some snack food for my trip to Berkeley Springs.
Berkeley Springs you say. Well, I hear that is a nice place, but my husband and I have never been there. We simply work this store and pump station like our folks did before us.
Paul grabbed a few items off the shelves and placed them on the counter to be rung up when her husband walked into the store. Herman, how much gas did she take?
Herman said, $28.73 and one quart of oil.
As the woman rang up the register Herman looked at Paul and said, She was only down a half quart so I put the plastic container in the back seat with the other half quart of oil. You will probably need that if you push that old Jeep up and down these mountain roads.
Paul thanked Herman and his wife for their hospitality and paid cash for his purchases. Herman’s wife said, This young feller is headed to Berkeley Springs.
Herman said, Nice place I hear. They have those mineral springs there that are supposed to help take away aches and pains.
Paul said, Well, I have enough aches and pains to give them a run for their money. Do you know of a hotel that may be close by the springs where I could stay the night?
Herman said, My brother stayed at The Country Inn located in the Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia. He said it was beautiful and was our nation’s first spa. I can give him a call if you need directions.
Paul said, No thanks, I have a GPS and will look up the directions.
The woman behind the counter said, We don’t have much need for those new electronic gizmos. Hell, we have a phone on the wall in our kitchen. I suppose you young folks have those cell phones that we see everyone using on the TV shows.
Paul smiled at the elderly couple and said, Thank you both for your help and kindness. I better get myself going if I want to make it there before nightfall.
Paul left the general store gas station and climbed into his Jeep to plug in his GPS. He searched for the Country Inn and pointed the Jeep toward his destination. While driving, Paul called ahead to make a reservation at the inn, and they were indeed very accommodating.
After a few more hours of driving, Paul started to see road signs announcing the Mineral Springs and the Country Inn. He was tired and simply wanted to get a hot meal and a hot shower before retiring for the evening.
After Paul pulled into the parking area of The Country Inn, he gathered the bag of clothes he would need and walked to the lobby. The counter person was a young woman, maybe late teens early twenties and she greeted Paul by saying, May I help you and do you have a reservation?
Her name tag read Jill.
Paul gave Jill his name as she typed it into the computer and said, Yes, Mr. Marco I have your reservation here. I will need to see a credit card and ID to get you registered.
As the hotel clerk did her magic on the computer, Paul asked if there was any place close by to get a good hot meal. She said, If you want quick and good there is a diner about 2 miles that way,
as she pointed. However, if you want a great steak dinner there is a bar restaurant about 4 miles that way," as she pointed again.
Paul said, The bar restaurant sounds good to me. Thank you so much.
You’re welcome, Mr. Marco. If you show them your room key at the inn, they will give you a 10% discount on your bill. My cousins run the place and we like referring customers to each other’s businesses.
Paul went to his room, which was on the first floor, and washed up before heading to the restaurant for dinner and a cold beer. Upon arrival at the restaurant, Paul noticed there were no cars. There were only pickup trucks and four-wheel-drive all-terrain vehicles. The bar was the first thing Paul noticed. Toward the back, there was an opening that led to the actual restaurant. The bar was mostly empty, but from what Paul could see, the restaurant was packed with people.
The bartender said, What can I get you?
I’ll have a cold draft Miller Lite, please.
Are you going to have dinner in the back? If so, there is about a twenty-minute wait. It is always busy at this time of night. I can add your name to the wait list if you like?
Paul pulled up a seat at the bar and said, Yes sir. I am pretty hungry, so put me down on the waiting list. The name is Marco.
The bartender placed the beer down in front of Paul and went to the phone by the cash register to call the restaurant waitress to tell her to put Mr. Marco down on the wait list. Dinner for one.
As Paul was finishing his beer the phone buzzed and the bartender picked it up and said, OK.
Then turned to Paul and said, Your table is ready. Take your beer and they will add it to your tab at the restaurant.
Paul did as he was instructed and was seated at a table that was set for two. An older woman approached him, handed him a menu, and asked if he would like another beer.
Yes, please another Miller Lite would be fine.
The menu was mostly beef and chicken dishes, with some Italian pasta dishes thrown in. As the waitress put the beer down in front of Paul she asked, See anything you like?
Paul’s eyes locked in on the porter house steak with mashed potatoes, corn, and sauteed mushrooms and onions. He ordered his meal and asked for a Caesar salad to go with the rest of the goodies.
The food was cooked to perfection and tasted great. Paul could see why the place was so crowded. In fact, the bar was now full of people waiting for their turn to be seated at the restaurant.
Paul finished his meal, paid for his tab, and showed his room key from the Century Inn to receive his 10% discount. He then headed for the parking lot, which was now completely full of vehicles. He climbed into the Jeep and headed back to the inn, where he stopped by the lobby counter to inquire about the hot mineral spring spa.
The same young woman, Jill, who checked him in, told Paul the best place this time of year, and the most famous and historic was just down the road, about a half mile. She said, You can’t miss it and they have everything you will need. The location is called the Warm Springs Bathhouse. If you want to take advantage of the peace and quiet, I recommend going as early in the morning as possible. The place opens at 5 a.m. By 9 a.m. the crowd starts to build.
Paul thanked Jill for the tip as well as for recommending the bar and restaurant. He told her the food was great, as was the service. He then went to his room to set his clock for 4 a.m. That would give him enough time to grab a coffee from the lobby and make the short drive to the bathhouse.
At 4 a.m., the clock radio buzzed, and Paul quickly took a shower and shaved before putting on his winter clothes. It was a very chilly thirty-eight degrees outside. He grabbed a quick cup of coffee from the lobby and ran toward his Jeep. When he saw the sign for the Warm Springs Bathhouse, the Jeep was barely warmed up. He pulled into the parking lot and walked through the large wooden doors that led to the spa.
An elderly man greeted Paul saying, Good morning, sir. Here for a warm soothing rest in our pool?
Yes indeed. I have heard good things about your spa from the young lady at The Century Inn.
Ahh. You must be talking about my cousin, Jill. She knows all about our fine spa and often sends us customers. You will not be dissatisfied.
After paying for the visit, he escorted Paul to the dressing room and gave him a locker and key. The elderly man said, In the locker you will find swim trunks and a large towel. The trunks are loosely fitted and have a drawstring to help hold them up. After you change, go through that door and enter the pool area. Enter the water slowly, allowing your body to quickly adjust to the constant temperature of 105 degrees. Most people find it best to simply sit in the warm water and let their aches and pains drift away. You are only the second person to arrive this early in the morning, so it will be a peaceful, quiet experience. Stay as long as you like and enjoy.
Paul changed into the soaking outfit and headed to the pool. There was an older man, maybe 75 years old, already soaking in the pool.
Good morning young man. It's fine to go into the water. My name is Jack.
Good morning to you sir. This is my first time here and my name is Paul.
Well, I come here once a week to help ease the pain in my knees and back due to arthritis.
With a low laugh he said, I have no idea if it actually works or if it is simply my mind playing tricks on me. All I know is I feel better after a good hot soak in the spa waters.
Paul stepped into the pool and sat down slowly until the water covered his entire body up to his neck. He really did not care whether the mineral water would help or not. He only knew that it felt soothing and good all over.
Jack said, The water composition consists of various chemicals but this spa contained minerals like calcium, magnesium, and sulfur, which are believed to have various health benefits. In the past, people believed that the water from this mineral spring could help treat ailments like arthritis, digestive problems, and skin conditions. Modern spa treatments often incorporate these waters for their soothing and relaxing properties.
Paul listened attentively to Jack go on about the spring but was merely being polite and just wanted to soak in the warm, refreshing water. After a half hour or so had passed, Jack went on his way, and Paul had the entire place to himself for about thirty minutes. New arrivals started to make their way to the pool, so Paul decided he had had enough and went back to the locker room to change. Overall, his body felt the best it had in months. Regardless of the placebo effect, his bones and muscles felt fantastic.
Paul went back to the inn, packed his gear, and headed to the lobby to check out. It was 10:30 a.m., and he wanted to stop and see Berkeley Springs State Park before making the second stop on his trip through small-town America. The next stop was from Berkeley Springs, WV, to Marietta, OH. That would only be about 225 miles (4 hours) so he had plenty of time to check out the State Park.
The park was a short drive from the inn. Paul entered the park and signed up for one of the many guided tours that were available to learn more about the park’s history and its significance. The tour took about two hours, but it was well worth the time Paul spent listening to the tour guide. The park also offers serene walking paths and picnic areas, perfect for a relaxing day out. Paul spent almost two hours on the walking paths. The sun was bright, and the temperature was perfect for hiking the trails. There was much to see with regard to wildlife, streams, and waterfalls. The place was majestic, but Paul had to end his time in the park to head on the second leg of his trip west.
Back in the Jeep Paul entered the GPS location for Marietta, OH. He pointed the Jeep in the right direction and slowly made the trip from West Virginia to Ohio. West Virginia highways have many scenic overlooks, and Paul took advantage of stopping at several to take photographs.
Paul was getting hungry, so when he saw a road sign for Cracker Barrel fifteen miles ahead, he decided to stop for a late lunch. Paul had eaten at Cracker Barrel in the past, and the food was good.
Paul was not disappointed in stopping to eat and filling his stomach with hot cakes, eggs, and bacon. Of course, there was orange juice and plenty of coffee to top off his meal.
Paul resumed his journey, with Marietta just fifty miles away. Paul called ahead to the Lafayette Hotel to book a room. The hotel was located on the waterfront and had easy access to the sites Paul wanted to check out.
The area is known for its prehistoric earthworks, created by the Hopewell and Adena cultures. Mound Cemetery, within the city, contains many of these ancient mounds. Then there was the Ohio River Museum, the Castle (a historic Gothic Revival mansion), and the Campus Martius Museum. He would try to take in all the sites, but he only planned to stay one full day in Marietta, so it might be tight.
Arriving at the Lafayette Hotel, Paul checked in and went to his room to rest for an hour, then went to the lobby office area to use one of the computers for business folks. He got the information he needed to visit Mount Cemetery and the Gothic Revival mansion. That would probably be enough to take up a good portion of his day.
Since Paul had such a late lunch, he decided to skip dinner, take a hot shower, and rest his back for the next day’s activities. He turned on the TV and found a rerun of a football game but was sawing logs before the first quarter ended.
Paul woke up the next morning with the TV still on and the sun just starting to peek through the window. He showered, shaved, and dressed for a crisp, cool morning in Ohio. In the hotel lobby, there was a restaurant serving breakfast, so Paul once again filled up with pancakes, eggs, and bacon. The food was served hot and delicious.
After breakfast, Paul went back to his room to pack up and then check out of the hotel. He loaded the Jeep with his gear and started his sightseeing itinerary.
All was going well, and the time passed quickly as he completed a guided tour of the Mount Cemetery. The central mound is the most significant feature of the cemetery. It is a conical burial mound approximately 30 feet high and 140 feet in diameter, serving as a burial site for the Adena people. The cemetery is an important educational site for understanding both prehistoric Native American cultures and the early history of the United States.
The guided tour of the Gothic Revival mansion was equally entertaining and informative. The interior maintains much of its original woodwork, including elaborate moldings and trim. Many rooms also feature period-appropriate furnishings that provide a glimpse into mid-19th-century life.
Some rooms include beautiful stained glass windows, adding to the mansion's historical ambiance.
Paul topped off his visit on the Valley Gem Sternwheeler. This was a cruise that typically lasts around 1-2 hours and offers scenic views of the Ohio River and its surroundings. Passengers can enjoy commentary on the history and significance of the river and Marietta.
Paul opted for the dinner cruise so he could finish his day with a relaxing meal on the water. The cruise was very peaceful, and Paul had to fight his urge to curl up in a corner and take a nap.
Oh well,
he thought. I need to make up some time on the road to my next destination.
Next up, New Harmony, Indiana, is a unique town with a fascinating history of utopian communities and serene landscapes.
This was going to be a bit longer drive. The distance would be approximately 350 miles, resulting in a driving time of approximately 6 hours. Paul called ahead to make a reservation at the Four Seasons Motel, located just outside of town. He told them he would be arriving late in the evening and checking out the next morning.
Paul would not spend a great deal of time in Harmony. He wanted to take the tour since it remains a fascinating destination for those interested in American history, utopian experiments, and cultural heritage. Its well-preserved historic sites and vibrant cultural scene offer a unique glimpse into the aspirations and challenges of early 19th-century communal living.
This stop was mainly a resting point for Paul, as he still had many miles to go before reaching Las Vegas.
Next stop: Hermann, MO, about 200 miles with a driving time of 3.5 hours. Paul wanted to visit one of the several wineries that are part of the Hermann Wine Trail, including Stone Hill Winery, Hermannhof Winery, and Adam Puchta Winery.
He decided to stay at the Inn at Hermannhof to enjoy the wine tasting, tour, and Cheese Wine Trail.
Hermann, Missouri, is a delightful destination that offers a rich cultural experience with its German heritage, scenic beauty, and thriving wine industry. It’s an ideal stop to relax, enjoy some wine, and immerse yourself in a bit of history and local charm.
Paul arrived at the inn, registered, and signed up for the tour the next day. His room was extremely comfortable and roomy, and it overlooked some of the vast wine vineyards and rolling hills. The weather was much better now and would continue to improve as he approached his final destination.
The next morning, Paul had a filling breakfast at the inn and waited for the tour bus to arrive. There were several others waiting for the tour to begin, and they were mostly couples or newlyweds, from what Paul could surmise. They all introduced themselves and made small talk until the bus arrived.
The tour was fantastic. The tour guide was well versed in the winery's history and answered any questions the group tossed his way. Hermannhof’s ten magnificent stone cellars and charming brick superstructure were very inspiring to witness. The tour included dinner at the Tin Mill Restaurant, which was very impressive and yet another remarkable structure.
At the end of another long day, Paul’s back was beginning to ache, so he decided to go to his room to soak in a hot bath to ease the pain. All the driving he had been doing over the past few days was certainly not helping his condition. Besides being on his feet for much of the sightseeing he did, that was also a contributing factor.
After a solid eight hours of sleep, Paul checked out of the inn and packed his Jeep for the next leg of his trip. The goal was to leave Hermann, MO, and drive to Council Grove, KS, about 270 miles with a driving time of 4.5 hours or thereabouts.
Paul decided to slow things down a bit so he would drive about halfway and rest for a few hours before continuing. That would give him an opportunity to find a place to have lunch before arriving at his destination.
The district includes over 15 sites listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Paul wanted to explore, participate in a ranger-led tour, and see the bison herd that roams the preserve.
He wanted to dine at the well-preserved Hays House (the oldest continuously operating restaurant west of the Mississippi River).
As for accommodation, Paul decided on one of the many historic bed and breakfasts in the area. This time, he chose the Clover Cliff Ranch Bed & Breakfast. It was a genuinely nice place, with fantastic scenery surrounding the area. In addition, it was only ten minutes from Chase Lake Falls.
Paul thoroughly enjoyed his stay at the inn. The food in the restaurant was fantastic, and the scenery was beyond his imagination. However, seeing the bison herd in the wild was absolutely priceless. These animals are huge and powerful. What a site to remember.
The next stop was a short one. Paul’s destination was Abilene, KS, which was a short 75 miles away with a driving time of 1.5 hours.
Paul called ahead and reserved a room at the Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites, just off Interstate 70.
Paul wanted to visit the Old Abilene Town, which is a historic reconstruction of Abilene from the 1860s, featuring authentic buildings and interactive exhibits. One could watch gunfight reenactments, visit the saloon, and learn about life in a frontier town through guided tours.
Paul grew up in the 50’s and 60’s so cowboy westerns were on TV every day. When he visited the old town of Abilene, he was reliving his childhood. What a treat.
In the evening, he went to his first ever dog track, where they raced Greyhounds. They even have a Hall of Fame dedicated to the history of America's Greyhound racing industry.
Paul had no idea what dog he was betting on, but he decided to play number three for good luck. After seven races, Paul managed to win one. Oh well, he thought, it was exciting to watch, and the crowd really got into each of the races as the dogs made their way around the track.
That night, Paul decided to eat a light dinner and retire early to soak his back in a hot tube of water. It didn’t take long for Paul to recover and he had another restful night’s sleep.
The next morning, he had a hardy breakfast in the hotel restaurant and then checked out for his next leg of the trip. This time, he was going to make two stops. This would also mark his halfway point to his final destination in Las Vegas.
The first stop was in Hays, KS, about 75 miles away, or about 1.5 hours’ driving time. The second stop would be in Salida, CO, which was 90 miles away, or about 1.75 hours’ drive.
Paul arrived at Hays about 9 a.m., and his first stop was at the original
